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Exploring Tver: Local Perspectives Amidst the Ukraine Conflict

By Steve Rosenberg, Russia Editor


As I enter Tver, the most striking aspect of the city is the presence of soldiers depicted on various advertisements. They adorn billboards, building facades, and bus stops with slogans like "Hero of Russia." These posters often show armed troops, urging citizens to “Love, be proud of, and defend” their country—a clear invitation to enlist and participate in the ongoing conflict in Ukraine.

Three years into its large-scale invasion of Ukraine, Russia is actively seeking new recruits. Despite the surrounding military imagery, everyday life in Tver might appear surprisingly normal to its residents, with the frontline located hundreds of miles away. Mikhail, a local educator, captures this sentiment: “Just look around. Cars are moving, shops remain open, and there are no signs of panic or sirens in the distance.”

For many Russians, the war—still referred to by the Kremlin as a “special military operation”—is largely a televised event. However, for individuals like Anna, the impact of the conflict is much more personal.

"I know numerous people who have gone off to fight," Anna reveals during our conversation. "Some never returned. I wish for this war to end quickly.” Interestingly, former U.S. President Donald Trump has expressed similar sentiments, although his administration’s attempts to engage with Russian leaders seem to overlook direct dialogue with Ukraine.

"What do people think of him?" I ask. “Trump is unpredictable,” she muses. “I have no idea what to anticipate from him.”

The Call for Complete Surrender

In discussions with various locals, I find some echoing the government’s narrative, claiming that Russia is not the aggressor but rather is protecting its citizens and liberating territories. However, this perspective does not reflect the views of all Russians.

“If the mainstream media portrays a pro-war stance, many will simply adopt that view. It’s easier than delving into the complexities," suggests Andrei Kolesnikov, a columnist for New Times and Novaya Gazeta. He likens this mindset to a defensive posture, where people choose to accept the information fed to them rather than grapple with the unsettling realities of war.

Larissa and her husband Valery seem to fully embrace the official stance. “We support the special military operation wholeheartedly,” she asserts. “We are even willing to volunteer to join the fight!” Yet, they have not taken any steps toward that commitment yet. “We hope for a complete victory for Russia and Ukraine’s total capitulation,” they affirm.

Our discussion is abruptly interrupted as police arrive, alerted to "suspicious people with a camera"—referring to us.

An Encounter with Law Enforcement

The officers approach courteously but are keen to understand the reason for our presence. After verifying our identification, they inquire about our intention to assess local sentiments separate from Moscow’s influence.

While we converse with the police, a Russian state TV crew unexpectedly arrives to film us. “We noticed the police here and thought you might need our assistance,” the reporter casually remarks. I ask him what he thinks about our presence.

"Oh, in Russia, we have freedom of speech," he replies, dismissively acknowledging the police’s role in our interaction.

“Except for the officers beside us,” I point out, highlighting the irony of the situation.

Reflections on the Ongoing Conflict

This exchange, lasting nearly an hour, is indicative of the war’s pervasive atmosphere of suspicion towards the West in Russia. Although there are hints of thawing relations between the U.S. and Russia, the prevailing sentiment is one of caution.

The people of Tver seem to hope that resolving the conflict will alleviate economic burdens. “The prices for basic necessities are soaring,” Yulia shares while soothing her baby in a stroller. “It’s difficult to manage with the cost of food like potatoes and onions.”

Conversely, Mikhail expresses skepticism about Trump’s approach to peace. “Unfortunately, he lacks a coherent plan,” he states. “While I respect him and am glad he’s back in the conversation, we are largely left in the dark about what he intends to do next.”


In a city divided between familiar daily life and the looming realities of conflict, Tver embodies a complex tapestry of hope, uncertainty, and the pervasive shadow of war.

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